Naples is loud, layered and the birthplace of pizza - eat a 5.50 EUR margherita at Da Michele, walk the arrow-straight ancient street of Spaccanapoli, and stand in front of the Veiled Christ in the Sansevero Chapel. The National Archaeological Museum holds the best finds from Pompeii, which itself sits 35 minutes away on the local train.
4-day Naples itinerary
- Day 1: Spaccanapoli end to end, the Veiled Christ at Cappella Sansevero (book ahead), evening pizza at Gino e Toto Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali
- Day 2: National Archaeological Museum in the morning, Napoli Sotterranea underground tour, coffee and sfogliatella around Piazza Dante
- Day 3: Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii for most of the day, back for a sunset walk on the Lungomare past Castel dell'Ovo
- Day 4: Funicular up to Vomero, Castel Sant'Elmo for the bay view, Certosa di San Martino, then an evening in Chiaia's wine bars
Where to stay: neighborhoods that make sense
- Centro Storicothe chaotic ancient heart around Spaccanapoli; the best first-time base for sights and food
- Chiaiaelegant seafront district with calmer evenings and upscale shopping
- Vomeroleafy hilltop residential area with big views, reached by funicular; quieter nights
- Quartieri Spagnolidense, atmospheric grid of lanes with great street food; lively and loud, keep your wits at night
What to eat in Naples
- Pizza margherita at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele or Sorbillo5.50-7 EUR, expect a queue
- Sfogliatella riccia warm from Pintauro or Attanasioabout 2.50 EUR
- Cuoppo (paper cone of fried seafood or fritters) in the centro storico - about 6 EUR
- Pasta alla genovese (slow onion and beef ragu) at a family trattoria - about 10 EUR
- Espresso standing at the barabout 1.20 EUR; it comes short, strong and pre-sugared unless you say 'amaro'
Mistakes most first-timers make
- Using Naples only as a Pompeii basethe centro storico and the Archaeological Museum deserve two full days on their own
- Carrying your phone loose in hand on the Circumvesuviana or in dense crowds - use a front pocket or zipped bag
- Renting a car for the citytraffic is intense and parking scarce; trains, funiculars and ferries cover everything
- Doing Pompeii without water, a hat and a downloaded mapthe site is vast and shade is scarce
Worth leaving the city for
- Pompeii (35-40 min on the Circumvesuviana)the world's best-preserved Roman city; go early, it needs 4-5 hours
- Herculaneum (20 min on the Circumvesuviana)smaller, better preserved and far less crowded than Pompeii
- Capri (50-80 min by ferry from Molo Beverello)cliff walks, the Gardens of Augustus and the famous blue water
Getting around
The Alibus shuttle links Capodichino airport with the center and the port in 20-30 minutes for about 5 EUR. The centro storico is best on foot; singles for metro, funiculars and buses cost about 1.30 EUR, and Metro Line 1's art stations are worth riding for their own sake.
Why this plan won't send you to a closed café
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